There are Italian restaurants, and then there are Italian restaurants, where the owners and the chefs remain true to their Italian roots and their mother’s recipes.

Ralph de Fusco started Ralph’s restaurant and catering over 20 years ago at the Kelley-Gazzerro VFW Post at 1418 Plainfield St. in Cranston.

The self-taught (with a little help from mom) owner/chef has built a catering/banquet service that at one time or another, has served most of the population of Cranston, Johnston and beyond.

After the urging of friends, we finally made it to the restaurant portion of his business.

Ralph’s Restaurant is in the lower floor of the VFW Post, which sits majestically on the hill, overlooking Cranston and Johnston. The 300-seat banquet hall is on the first floor, with the 80-plus seat restaurant down below.

After being seated and welcomed by our friendly and helpful waitress, Natalia, we were brought a basket of two types of fresh Italian bread.

Ralph’s is open Wednesday and Thursday evenings from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

We went on a Wednesday night for the Dinner for Two Special (4-8 p.m.), which includes your choice of any two dinners on their extensive menu, soup or salad, pasta or potato and vegetable, plus your choice of a bottle of wine, all for $34.95.

Order the chicken soup. That’s an order! It is filled with chicken, pasta, veggies, meatballs and a broth that is to die for.

The dinners listed under “Italian Traditions” range from Chicken Marsala ($14.95) to Veal Romano: eggplant, ricotta and mozzarella- ($17.95)

Joyce chose the Saltimbocca (sautéed in marsala sauce topped with prosciutto and mozzarella. The veal was as tender as could be, the sauce was heavenly, and the portions were large. She even let me have a bite. Pasta comes in more varieties than you find on a supermarket shelf. She chose the angel hair.

I chose one of the four specials for the evening, a broiled honey mustard salmon over mixed greens with roasted sweet potato slices and summer vegetables. It was my first time for salmon with honey mustard, which complements the fish perfectly. Plus I’ve found a new way to cook my beloved sweet potatoes.

Both dishes were huge, as were the chicken parmigiana plates brought to the next table, nearly half of which was boxed for further pleasure.

“Is this your first time here?” the gentleman asked. “We eat here at least once a week.”

Veal and chicken dishes dominate the menu, joined by a variety of traditional Italian items seldom found in other restaurants that claim to be Italian.

“We have our infamous Tripe and Suffrito combination plate that our customers love,” Ralph told us. “We like to cook with rabe, eggplant, polenta and sausage and peppers. Veal and peas ($14.95) is one of our more popular dishes.”

“Fridays are our most popular days,” Natalia told us. “The fish and chips spill over the plate.”

We’ll be back to try the Sicilian fried squid over pasta, with roasted peppers, olives, hot peppers, in a white wine butter sauce ($13.95).

They also have a Johnson & Wales pastry chef come in a couple of times a week, creating some fascinating desserts. I enjoyed a unique bread pudding, while Joyce had a delicious pineapple cake.

Ralph buys most of his ingredients locally, and they are always fresh. I think their biggest investment is in take-home boxes for that food people just couldn’t finish.

Ralph also manages the nearby Santa Maria de Prada club, a 200-seat banquet hall.

In addition to the many functions held at both locations, Ralph’s catering has a full line of prepared foods for your special occasion, including sauces by the quart, half gallon or gallon, salads, pasta and an extensive menu of meals.

Our only regret is that we hadn’t discovered Ralph’s sooner. The quality and portions are superior. The service is friendly. And it is preparation as only a quality restaurant does it.

For reservations, prepared food orders, or information on banquet facilities, call 464-4440.