In this time of uncertainty, we can use all the comfort we can get.

Google “comfort food” and you’ll find a photo and recipes for meatloaf, the No. 1 dinner that brings back memories of your youth.

My mother added Lipton onion soup and a spoonful of Heinz ketchup, stretching it with a bit of bread.

Leftovers became meatloaf sandwiches for our school lunchboxes.

Our local diner served meatloaf, mashed potatoes, gravy and canned green beans, one of the cheaper items on their menu.

I ate meatloaf at home, at Boy Scout camp, for school lunch, at the college cafeteria, and at least once a week after I was married and living on a tight budget.

Years later came the revolution!

We were living comfortably, discovered fine dining and a bigger grade of beef, and, alas, the much-abused meatloaf became a memory. We were too good for cheap mashed hamburger.

Then came the ’90s. Chefs started experimenting with other comfort foods like mac and cheese. Creamier, more exotic sauces and herbs were added, followed by lobster and mushrooms.

Spaghetti and meatballs were replaced with fra diavolo, aglio and oglio. Mussels, shrimp, calamari and little necks were included.

It was time to take a closer look at that loaf of meat. Chefs loved their spices, adding exotic flavors to the meat. They discovered that veal, pork and even turkey could be blended with a higher grade of beef. Capers, onions, peppers were added.

Meatloaf became an exotic dish, and the price went up.

My first experience was the Cheesecake Factory, where the dish was served over garlic mashed and topped with onion rings.

I moved on to Twin Oaks, where there was always enough for a sandwich the next day.

Other restaurants joined the trend, with first-class chefs adding their own creativity. Revolution in Cranston, Iron Works in Warwick and Union Station in Providence were added to my list. There are more out there. Let me know your favorite at donjoycefowler@aol.com.

Meatloaf, like a good martini, is in the eye of the beholder.